Almost three years ago, I replaced the deteriorating hinged doors on our garden shed with sliding (barn) doors. I made a few compromises during that installation, because I thought I would be installing vinyl siding on the shed the following year. Well, one year became three, the way that they do, and I am finally facing my earlier decisions. This is more of a D-I-Y post than a doors post, but it is about doors, so I’m using it for Thursday Doors, Norm Frampton’s fun weekly blogfest highlighting doors from around the world. If you want to participate (or view more doors) visit Norm’s page.
I will spare you as many technical details as I can, but some are going to be necessary. The first detail is the way these doors hang from the track. Since the rollers couldn’t be secured inside the door frame, they are attached to large brackets. Those brackets are bolted to the face of the doors. Those bolts protrude through the door, interfering with passage over trim boards. This isn’t a problem on a barn, but our shed doesn’t have an unlimited amount of space over the doorway, and I really would like for the doors seal against the trim to keep the weather out.
I removed the doors, removed the carriage bolts, inserted threaded fasteners called T-nuts from the back, and bolted through the brackets with bolts that are now flush with the back of the door.
Once the doors had the ability to pass flush over a trim board, I needed to install those boards. However, it wasn’t that simple. In order to slide over the vinyl siding that will be installed, the door track and the doors needed to be moved ¾” out from the wall. This requirement actually worked in my favor.
In addition to pushing the door out, I needed to make the door opening higher. I made the door big enough for this change, as I’ve wanted to make the doorway higher ever since I put the storm cab on my snowblower. It is a very tight squeeze. I also replaced the small window on that wall.
The captions on the pictures in the gallery tell the story better, but the basic steps included:
- Remove the track.
- Install a PVC base behind the track. Note: since the track holds the doors ¾” away from the wall, this is the only board I needed here.
- Remove the header from the doorway, remove the “cripple studs” from above the header and reinstall the header flush with the top plate of the wall.
- Remove the sheathing below the header.
- Cut and insert pieces of PVC trim to fill in the missing segments where the bolts from the hinges have slid by for three years.
- Cover the door trim with a second layer of PVC trim. These pieces are oversized, so that they extend beyond the edge of the underlayment layer and form a channel for the siding.
- Rehang and adjust the door.
- Remove the old window.
Note: this was a two-day process. The rolling brackets were made flush one day and the door was rehung the next day. The second door will be rehung once I’m ready to turn the corner.